São Nicolau

São Nicolau is the 7th island we have traveled to. We spent a very full 2 1/2 days working and enjoying the beautifully green and mountainous island.

We left Mindelo Monday morning, September 3. The ‘we’ in this case included President Cesar Fortes, the Mindelo District president. He accompanied us as the official local priesthood leader. At present, there is no Church unit on São Nicolau since the branch was dissolved several years ago. São Nicolau is still in the jurisdiction of the MIndelo District, so we invited him to join us on the trip.
There are very few direct flights to São Nicolau so we first flew to Sal. As we were landing, the announcement came that the plane was going on to São Nicolau and all passengers who were going there should stay on the plane. After all other passengers had disembarked, we looked around and….we were the only passengers left. I guess we were the only ones in Mindelo who wanted to go to São Nicolau. Too bad – they missed a beautiful island!

We were met at the São Nicolau airport by Mary Helena, the local Red Cross president and Manuel, the driver. They were very gracious and fun hosts – and we spent much time together.

They took us to our hotel,  newly built and very nice accommodations. The bright purple and pink made it easy to know we were almost home!

If you look at the space between the yellow building and our hotel, you will see a typical street!! The streets in Ribeira Brava were narrow!! There was usually room for a van and a pedestrian who, wisely, either got into a doorway or squeezed against the building. The cars went just as fast on the narrow streets as any where else.

After checking in, we went to the headquarters of the São Nicolau Red Cross for a tour. This is also where they stored the wheelchairs. President Fortes is on the left and Mary Helena, the São Niclolau Red Cross President, is on the right.

The first order of business was to load up the van with 3-4 wheelchairs. They had received the wheelchairs just about two months before and were waiting for us to arrive to begin the distribution.

One of many mountain peaks with clouds swirling around

It was off and on raining when we arrived and the rain continued through the day. The clouds obscured many of the mountains, but still made for beautiful views!

We drove around and through the mountains on the relatively normal narrow roads with steep drop offs on one side. Yes, I closed my eyes sometimes and on this first trip, my closed eyes put me to sleep!! I did need the rest anyway. Most of the roads had been paved, so at least it wasn’t too bumpy but the driver drove faster! On Monday afternoon, we went to the farthest town, Tarrafal of São Nicolau, and then started working our way back to Ribeira Brava.



The first 2 recipients of wheelchairs in São Nicolau. I have found that just because you are handicapped, doesn’t mean you can’t be happy and have a BIG smile!! The young woman was especially excited about her new wheelchair.

This gentleman is the director of an organization devoted to helping the handicapped and the aged. He took us to the site where they would like to build a new center for the elderly. I think he was hoping we could help, but we do not support construction of buildings. You often wish you could do everything. But it probably would not be in anyone’s best interest. And it is not reality.

Exploring Ribeira Brava

Ribeira Brava is a very charming town and has more of an European feel that many other islands. Many of the houses had tile roofs, rather than the flat concrete that is common elsewhere. We had some time Monday evening to walk around the city, although we had to take shelter several times from the rain.

In the praça near the hotel. The building in the back is the library.

The local Catholic Church

The local market is in a very nice building. I am hiding inside to keep out of the rain.

View of the city across the ribeira from the upper road

The city is nestled in the ribeira. There isn't much other place!

Delivering Wheelchairs in earnest!!

Tuesday, we first had a short visit with the president of the Cámara of Ribeira Brava and then spent the rest of the day delivering wheelchairs. We filled up the van with our 5 or so for the morning delivery, and then repeated the process for the afternoon. Below are some of the people who received this help and their families who serve them. We had quite the contingent delivering the wheelchairs: Maria Helena, president of São Nicolau Red Cross; Manuel, the driver; Elder and Sister Broderick; President Fortes; and,Tania, the representative of Cámara.
Come with us to visit some of these homes.

The first order of business after carrying the box with the wheelchair was to unbox the chair, attached the foot rests and pump up the tires with the bicycle pump that was included. It was most important to have someone in the family learn how to to these things and we encouraged them to be part of the set up.

This gentleman is practicing his newly found mobility!

Most of the time it was get in the van, drive, deliver a wheelchair, and repeat many times!! We delivered 19 wheelchairs in the 2 days we were in São Nicolau.

And a couple of times we took a break. We had just finished delivering a chair when we were invited to enter this house. The owner is in the distance on the left. It was a beautiful home and nicely decorated. That is an interest paradox of Cape Verde, almost across the street are homes of the poor while the rich enjoy many amenities.

 

This is his backyard. Below me is a small swimming pool, though currently it is not filled.

The view of the coast looking the other way. Can’t beat that view from your back yard!
The nice thing about these types of places is the poor have the same incredible view!! I hope they can enjoy it as much as we did.

The owner’s wife had died several years ago. She was an artist and the walls of their home were filled with her pictures. We enjoyed looking at them. You could tell she had been a loving wife and it felt a little lonely.

This is one of many paintings. I would love this one as a jigsaw puzzle!!

After another delivery, we drove down to the dock where some young men were fishing for fish bait.  It seemed a shame to use such interesting fish as bait!

But, who knows what big fish will find them tasty??!!

 Wednesday, departure day, dawned early. We visited and toured the local health center that has basic care and minor hospital procedures. Then we took off for the final delivery. We drove the same road as the day before until we came to the mouth of a canyon and turned off onto the cobblestone road and up a lusciously green valley. 

We drove a fair distance up the valley until we came to a VERY steep part of the road. Apparently the recipient lived half way up the hill. The van was parked, we hijacked several young men to carry the wheelchair and we all climbed the hill. The beneficiary was the grandpa and he was surrounded by his children and grandchildren.

We stayed and visited. They freely shared some mangos from their tree.

Here we are heading back down the road with the mango and papaya treasures.

It was time to get going. Our flight left at 1:30 and we needed to get back to the hotel to pay our bill, get our luggage. And so we left this lovely valley. 

On our way to the airport, we took a back route which meant going up a road that was steep and had about 10-12 switchbacks. Once on top and traveling through an agricultural area, we stopped at a farm. President Fortes wanted to buy some melons to take home to his children. It was raining lightly, but that didn’t stop anyone.

The farmer's wife choosing the melon among the green peppers.

She gave us a free taste -- Fresh vine-ripened watermelon. A delicious treat!

We made it to the airport with about 45 minutes to spare. I knew we were ok when we arrived because there was a large group outside the arrival door, waiting for the plane to arrive. We got checked in, Pres. Fortes got his melons boxed to check and while we waited for the plane to land in we visited with our hosts in the small café in the airport.

São Nicolau has a very small airport. Just over the wall in the back is the arrival area. We checked our baggage at one counter, she handed over our passports and itinerary to the next desk where she wrote out our boarding passes. And it works!

It’s time to load up the plane. They do a pretty quick turn around. The plane lands, the passengers get off, the baggage comes off, the new baggage goes on while the new passengers embark. It usually takes about 25 minutes and the plane is ready to take off again. We say good bye to São Nicolau! We are on our way to Praia for the next leg of our journey.