| Our first little corner of a whole new world |
Soon after we boarded TACV flight 691 from Boston to Praia, Cabo Verde, we realized this was not Danville. It was not Boston. It was not like any world we had ever experienced. It was Cabo Verde!
The aging Boeing 757 flew smoothly through the night and found the tiny Atlantic island surrounded by the big ocean the following morning. It was Saturday in Praia, the 11th of June. We were surrounded ourselves by a dark skinned people who had their own rules, their own language, their own manner of interacting. We were the islands in that ocean, but we didn’t feel unwelcomed, just unprepared for how different our new world was.
We descended the staircase into a bright warm world as total strangers. The people around us were hardly speaking a language we recognized, but the signs in both English and Portuguese directed us to the correct line in customs. It was a much smaller world than the one we had just left and much more primitive.
| Humm. Did I really need those spices and four voltage converters? |
Our four large bags rolled onto the belt and we headed for the exit, unsure when we were cleared to pass. The only security was to make sure we could claim our bags. Outside, again in the blinding sunlight, we were greeted by a line of taxi cabs and drivers, but not the familiar white shirts we strained to see. When it because obvious that those white shirts were not expecting us, we found a phone number, a friendly Hertz rental agent to place a call for us, and a surprised mission president. We were at least 5 days too early, but for us there was no turning back. We will likely be ahead of the Cabo Verde clock for months to come.
President Neves, the Mission President, dispatched his two assistants, Elders Peterson (from the USA) and Moreira (from Brazil), in their Mission Corolla to pick us up. The poor little car labored with its American load, with poor Elder Moreira holding one of our giant bags on his lap. They took us to the combined Mission Office and Presidents home in Praia, the capitol city. Between the airport and the city the landscape was barren, something we are becoming accustomed to, somewhat. Exiting we were greeted by two of the hundreds of stray dogs that make Cabo Verde their meager home.
| The traditional picutre with Mission President and Wife, minus two month old. |
President Neves, and later his wife, most graciously greeted us and immediately put us at ease. We immediately liked the Neves a lot and look forward to working with them more in Mindelo, our long term home, when they are released from their mission call the end of June. Over the next two days we shared meals with them, met their children including their two month old son Ruben, and were introduced by them to many aspects of Cabo Verdean life.
| Nice cobble stone road, but most people walk |
The mission put us up in a hotel for the two days we stayed in Praia. It was nice¸ except for the one large cockroach, and it had AC in the bedroom. We took a picture or two from our third story window to capture the feel of this capital city. It is fairly representative of what we saw those two days.
We were immediately immersed in the LDS community in Praia. We attended a seminary and institute graduation ceremony after our mission orientations given by the AP’s and the mission nurse, Sister Kathleen Adams. Elder and Sister Adams took us under their wing those first two days and Sister Adams has continued to phone us here in Mindelo just to make sure we are getting along fine. We are in many good hands here.
Monday morning, very early, the AP’s picked us and our luggage up this time in the mission van, and hauled us back to the airport. We made our first cash withdrawal of Escudos, the local currency. With an exchange rate of almost 80 Escudos (CVE) per $, prices look high. We started off paying several thousand Escudos to transport our extra luggage to São Vicente, the northern island home to the second largest city in Cabo Verde, Mindelo. We think it was worth bringing all we did, but we didn’t have a lot of choice at this point.
The flight took about 40 minutes in a turbo prop airplane. It was smooth and fast. As we approached land again, we came in low over the ocean into the arms of two rugged ridge lines that cradled São Pedro, the little airport community. The landing strip seemed about as wide as San Ramon Blvd. This time missionaries were expecting us. Elders Smith and Vance, the North Mindelo Zone Leaders met us along with Jorge, the well-known and well-used taxi driver.
| Janet starting to feel at home in her new kitchen. Not bad, but outside is a whole different story |
Our warm welcome continued that first day in Mindelo. Sisters Turnbow and Holland had our place touched up from sitting three months empty. Elders Smith and Vance took us on an extended tour of the city showing us where the ATMs and grocery stores were located, our chapel, just down the hill from our place, many other stores, banks, and the telephone company, plus a few key contacts for active projects. It was a whirlwind day, but a great way to start.
| Our first grocery store - so that is chicken. What is the portuguese word for it again? |
We managed to pick up enough groceries to prepare two meals for the day and everything in the kitchen worked. We could eat. We could also drink our own filtered water. Hurray.
| Our own |
Monday night was family home evening (FHE) at the Broderick’s house. We decided to leave the house and explore down towards the bay and ocean front. We found the beach and walked into the center of town along the water front road. Finding our way back to our apartment became more the challenge and test to what we remembered from our earlier tour and skills reading the “Map” (a future story).
Life for the next few days was kind of a blur. We found more stores and places to pay bills. That was essential on Thursday when we came home to find our power turned off. No one had paid the electric bill for about four months. We took care of that that afternoon. Without power we had no Internet.
We were anxious to find out about the fish we had heard about, especially the tuna steaks. One morning walk showed us where the fish market was, but we were too early. The next morning walk landed us right in the middle of the opening bell. They were weighing fish, cutting up fish, filling trays with fish, and all the street vendors where lined up to fill their basins and wheelbarrows for the day. We were swimming upstream, but no one yelled at us. When we finally found the tuna and Janet bought our first 2 kilo, it was dirt cheap making the whole experience sweet in the end. It has been great, especially with some of our favorite seasonings we brought from home.
So much has happened these past two weeks, that we could fill a dozen pages with juicy details. We plan to kind of drag it out, sort of by themes over the next number of postings. We hope you will find a stroke by stroke picture of life in Cabo Verde worth your reading.
One of the most interesting topics we will save for a future post is the language. Whew! Describing the people may take several. They are wonderful.
| Kleidy (Katy) - a very animated young adult, and private tutor |
We didn’t take many pictures the first few days, but that changed once we felt oriented and past the stay-alive basics. We have include a few to give you a starting taste.
| Young adults hanging out, outside the church, after a convert baptism. Not so different there. |
We have gone to church in Mindelo, a few times during the week and on Sunday. It is our second home.
Signing off for now – Elder and Sister Broderick